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Note Glossary

Every word we use on a fragrance page, explained plainly. If a term on one of our product pages is not here, message us and we will add it.

Accord

Structure

Several notes blended so they read as one smell. When a page says the main accord is amber, that is the overall impression rather than a single ingredient.

Amber

Note

Warm, slightly sweet and resinous. Not a real fossil resin in modern perfume but a blend, usually labdanum with vanilla and benzoin.

Ambroxan

Note

A clean, faintly salty woody-musk. It is the reason so many modern men's fragrances smell smooth and slightly mineral.

Aquatic

Note

Sea air and wet stone. Refreshing, and among the first notes to vanish in Lagos heat.

Base notes

Structure

What is left after several hours, and what people around you actually remember. Read these first when you shop.

Bergamot

Note

A bitter citrus from Calabria. Opens a huge number of fragrances because it lifts everything above it.

Concentration

Term

How much perfume oil is in the bottle. Eau de toilette is lightest, eau de parfum stronger, extrait strongest. A pure oil has no alcohol at all.

Dry-down

Term

How a fragrance smells once the opening has burned off, usually from the first hour onward.

Gourmand

Family

Fragrances that smell edible: vanilla, caramel, almond, chocolate, coffee.

Heart notes

Structure

The middle of a fragrance, carrying the hours between the opening and the base. Florals and spices usually live here.

Iso E Super

Note

A soft, dry cedar-like note. Some people cannot smell it at all, which is why opinions on woody scents differ so sharply.

Labdanum

Note

A sticky, dark resin from rock rose. The backbone of most amber accords.

Longevity

Term

How many hours a fragrance stays detectable on skin. Oils generally last longer than sprays because there is no alcohol carrying them off.

Musk

Note

Soft, skin-like warmth. Modern musks are synthetic, and they are what makes a fragrance smell clean rather than perfumed.

Note

Structure

A single smell within a fragrance, like bergamot or vanilla.

Note pyramid

Structure

The top, heart and base notes listed together. Useful, but it tells you nothing about proportion, which is why we also show accord strength.

Opening

Term

The first ten to fifteen minutes. The loudest part of a spray and the quietest part of an oil.

Oud

Note

Resinous wood from infected agar trees. Deep, sometimes medicinal, and expensive. Often used as a base rather than the centre.

Oxidation

Term

What happens when a bottle is left open, hot or in sunlight. The scent turns sharp. Keep bottles closed and out of the sun.

Patchouli

Note

Earthy and dark. In small amounts it adds weight; in large amounts it is unmistakable.

Perfume oil

Term

The fragrance composition without alcohol. Sits closer to the skin, lasts longer, and is gentler on sensitive skin.

Projection

Term

How far a fragrance travels from your skin. Strong projection is noticed on entry; low projection is noticed in a hug.

Pulse points

Term

Warm places where fragrance develops best: behind the neck, base of the throat, behind the ears, inner elbow.

Saffron

Note

Leathery and slightly medicinal, with a warm edge. Common alongside rose and oud.

Sillage

Term

The trail a fragrance leaves behind you. From the French for wake, as in a boat's wake.

Tonka bean

Note

Almond, vanilla and hay together. The soft sweetness under most gourmands.

Top notes

Structure

The first impression, and the shortest lived. Citrus and green notes usually sit here.

Vanilla

Note

Sweet, warm and comforting. The most requested note we stock, and the hardest to make interesting.

Still not sure what suits you?

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Longer reads

The journal

Reviews of every bottle we stock, longevity in Lagos heat, and what inspired-by honestly means.